Use a topping coat for your final finish coat. Use fast setting type mud ( you mix with water) for the initial first coat.
#Patch plaster walls Patch
Now your patch is in place, simply tape the perimeter and mud it up. Now, insert your drywall patch and screw it to the stick. It is easy to cut these free-hand with the tool.just take your time and continue the cut in one direction.clockwise I believe.you can tell by the feel immediately which direction gives you the most control.Īfter cutting out the hole, slide a small piece of wood into the opening, pull this stick tight against the inside of the plaster, and drive a couple of drywall screws through the plaster and into this stick to hold it in place.
#Patch plaster walls zip
Cut your drywall patch first, hold it over the existing hole, now draw the outline, then use the roto zip to cut out around the outline. My advice, draw outlines around your existing holes so that they become "squared off". I just used mine the other day to cut out a hole in a plaster wall for installing an "old work" electrical box on a recent job. This tool and the blades make it a breeze to cut through any wall including plaster.
#Patch plaster walls install
I would seriously think about purchasing a roto-zip tool ( approx $50), or else at least the roto-zip blades and install in a router. Seems like it would work just fine.but may be too costly if you have a lot of holes to patch.
There is a metal patch sold at Lowes ( cost is $5 for an 8X8 inch patch) that you can cut to fit over the hole, then just mud overtop. Patching plaster walls with drywall is the norm. Hard to say which of the above methods would be the all depends on the type of patch. Use a setting compound on the first two coats and joint compound on the final coat.
Use joint compound on the final coat.Īnother alternative is the drywall patches that are sold, they have a steel and fiberglass mesh and come in various sizes.little expensive but they work well. If the new electric wires are against the wood lathe of the plaster, just fill the snake hole with Durabond and use mesh tape around the edges of the patch. be careful with the Durabond as it's impossible to sand. On the next few coat use Durabond around the blowpatch and on the final coat use a joint compound which can be easily sanded. Affix the blowpatch into the plaster ans straighten out the blowpatch. Use Durabond and imbed it well on the "blowpatch" and into the plaster hole. Then make a "blowpatch" out of the drywall. Try to make the patches as straight, square or rectangular as possible. Are hollow-sounding walls characteristic of plaster on rock lath, or is it something else? Our home inspector thought they were drywall until he saw the rock lath in the attic. Furthermore, the brown coat of plaster is quite tough and is eating up all the blades I’ve used to try to square the holes off.Īlso: when you knock on these walls, you hear a hollow sound, like drywall, and not the dead thud that I associate with plaster walls. Is there a better way? The instructions I’ve seen for patching plaster all assume that there’s intact wood lath behind the plaster, but here, the rock lath gets the same holes as the plaster. Right now I’m patching the holes as if the walls were drywall: cutting out drywall patches and using joint compound and mesh tape. The circuit installation, of course, means a few dozen holes in the walls that must now be patched. I’m having an electrician install several new circuits in the house I just bought, which I have determined has plaster walls on rock lath.